Florence the Brave of Gobustan-and the Caucus leopard

It was not only the food that made Azerbaijan a very real place... it was our wonderful guide when we travelled out to the petoroglyphs.

Many kilometers south of Baku  lies an area called Gobustan. It is a poor area- the marginalised unemplyed and welfare ecipients ar "moved" in this direction . UNemplyment benefits are 180 manat per month! That is about 40 KD or about same in AUD.

But Gobustan harbours stories of antiquity- the whos and the whys and the whats and the hows..... who werethese people who drew their lives on the rocks, high on  a limestone mesa....? Who were these people who showed us the time when the auroch was domesticated? Who were these people who had women as leaders and revered the fertility of the woman?

Our guide , Gani, gave us a quote about the King of Azerbaijan who met with Alexander the Great..... he could not believe that the Lion of Azerbaijan was female. She said that a lion can be eeither male or female.... but they are still a lion. How true this is!

So we climbed up the mesa, crumbling and broken, a one time glory when the Caspian Sea covered the whole area of that basin across to Terkmenastan and all through there.... hence the limestone formations. Once upon a time, this area was a fertile plain, with lions and bears, and all manner of creatures, but the changing sea level and climate brought forth the plain, crumbling rock and little o worth.... Let it be known , however, that this area has a leopard and bears..... it is a hard world on the plains of Azerbaijan.
So we saw the petroglyphs- the stories of generations inscribed on that limestone mesa... magnificnet women, no head or arms but representing the strength and power of women, the domestication of the cow, the dancing of the people so they might drive the animals off the cliff.... still seen today in the "folk" dancing of the people... holding hands- you know how the river dance people do it? and the Greeks? there was a reason.

The music of the ancients..

The furtherest East that the Romans went is marked by this inscription- Claudius woz here.

Huge mud volcanoes

Florence Feeling Normal....

Baku? Beautiful  beautiful place!
Arrived at a very modern airport, reminiscent of Scandanavian architecture- clean and modern . Easy to navigate and exit!

Arrival

Taxi into the old town- nothing like a good barter to get the visit started. We felt like we did a good deal! It is about 40 minutes into the city. people drive in their lanes and give way and stop and go where they are meant to- none of the haphazard barging around as is de rigeur in Kuwait.

Driving in meant we saw the modern Baku- that which happened after the Russians left but we saw it merged with the old building - pleasing and some were stunning....

So to the old town. Like all old towns in European cities, there is the entry gate. Our hotel was just inside the gates- Shah Palace Hotel, an elegant and opulent hark back to a past of wealth and status.

The bedroom was huge... like I could have invited half the city in but I didnt ! and the walkway overlooked a huge roofed courtyard where one could sit and sip a little whiskey if one so desired.
The colours of gold, red and blue were obvious in the tapestries and carpets...
The old town, again,is like all the tourist traps in old towns- this one had wild sheepish hats of long wool, elegant colourful scarves- all thanks to the booming Chinese manufacturing industry of imitation.
But important things came first and that was lunch. We walked up the cobbled roads and were hauled/invited/encouraged to enter a shiny colourful Azerbaijani restaurant. With no time to speak, we were lead through to the back room and , in gratitude for a non decision making role, just sat on the rugs and cushions.... our magnificent waiter, understanding it was just a snack, and a taste of local wine... provided us with five types of small omelettes- herb, cheese, lamb, chestnut and another I have forgotten - divine! The local wine is a rich red and has a flavour that is wonderful. We also were offered pomegranite wine- very tasty !
Emil was the name of our waiter, and as we decided that this was the place to eat, we got to know him a little bit.
so... wine, lunch and then walking around into the main mall area of the city- modern, normal and enticing bcause of its normalising of clothing. The fur and wool shop was having a great sale of coats 50% off! As much as I loathe the fur trade, those coats were something else... but my heart was elsewhere!
We walked and coffeed, played chess then back to the hotel....
That night we walked in the old town -  and saw the age, the foundations that were being exposed and the lives that were about to be examined- the old Maiden tower was built in 700BC. Around its foundations are what appears to be the exposed remnants of ancient homes... stone bowls and grinding tools... so so old.
A very assertive woman grabbed us and hauled us upstairs - I keep my good textiles up here, away from those who are going to copy and imitate..... so the next half hour was spent being shown, silk scarves, silk things and silk..... I was so overwhelmed..... after the requisite glass of tea, we escaped down the almost vertical stairs!
Time to dine
back to our restaurant and that wonderful waiter, Emil. We ate lamb of the most delicious flavour- lamb wrapped in tiny repes, lamb chunks, herb salads, tomatoes,  a lamb based soup with dumplings. It was the food of Azerbaijan and cooked by the three women. Stupendous! A night of feasting, wine and lying on the cushions!!!! That was excellent... but the food is something else!


Apologies for no pics but every time I go to use ICloud..... the photos are somewhere else until days later..... and I cannot access them easily.....   but I finally found  a way to do this( this time)

Testicles for Florence but she says no......

Menu for Dinner

We hear little actual news of Kuwait and we live here. My information comes from various corners but it is not easy to find out what is going on. For those whose geography is sketchy, this tiny little country is positioned in the middle of Iran and Saudi..... for example... everything must pass over and through....
It is an interesting time to be here as rumours circulate.

So we went out for dinner
and forgot about it all.
Situated right on the Gulf of Arabia isBurj Al Hamam- a divine Lebanese restuarant right on the water's edge.

Looking back towards Kuwait City

The evening is warm but the heat has gone.
The water is almost oily in its heaviness but that is possible anyway as the oil wells sit out off the coastline beyond vision. The waves rise with a slowness. as if here, the water is more dense ... and it is as the saltiness would never allow for a drowning!


But the food is good. I think the first waiter did not find us to his liking as he forgot us quickly. The second was attentive but his caring attitude was lacking or just not obvious on this night. The final one was great and we settled into another great feast in Kuwait. Pesto hummous, various breads, salads, meats... we decided against the lamb testicles.


And later the fisherman came and sat on the water's edge/ Families sat along the beach.

Crossing Gulf Street to find a cab is a challenge as the cars all seem intent on homicide with the victims being two pinkies... made it though and found a mad cabbie.
Hopped in and said 2.5 KD... he said no... Stop we said and I made to get out, Lee's door had been locked from the front as the mongrel refused to stop
/ My door was open as he kept moving..  I am glad I was not alone- this guy was a crazy. He agreed to our deal and we continued. This is my second bad go with a cabbie. The first time I was alone , coming home from the gym and that guy had locked my door too...... I won't travel at night alone again and only go with my known driver. The males intend to intimidate women- same story as everywhere.

So I wonder what this week will bring and I wonder if the invasion sirens will sound for real instead of just for practise......

The entry

After dinner on the beach

The Exposure of Florence..... to dangers

Strange week!

It literally began with a bang when the 7.4 earthquake in Iran qquivered its way down to Kuwait. Swaying high rise and rocking bed forced me to wake up- thinking we were having a storm with no sound, I got up and heard the bathroom doors banging and the buiding was still swaying...


The word earthquake never entered my head. I heard others out in the hall and when I opened my door was met by equal confusion. Many loud voices were outside and it was time to get downstairs and not in the lift! Eleven flights is a way to walk...

By the time we got down the building would have been devastated if that was to be its end but fortunately it wasnt! Yes.. earthquake it was. Googling gave na immediate answer as the Iran quake was already being discussed.
It was felt all throughout the Middle EAst.
If you look at Kuwait, you can see all these tall buildings. If you watch as they are being built, you realise that there is only sandstone beneath... the foundations look pretty thin    as the buildings emerge from sand.
What a day....morning!
Parent afternoon and evenings were next - 24 hours of conversation about students. Stories? indeed  and one day they will emerge!
Off to markets and dinner tonight- maybe some awesome pics will be offered up but hav every little this week. It has been a full on week of work.
Just thought I would show you some pics of my classroom, complete with marble floors, terrible acoustics and chairs that are straight out of a lecture theatre.

Veiled Faces and hidden stories

A moment of contemplation... how close have we ever been to a war? To bombing? To desperation? How can you tell, just walking down the street, who has been fired at, watched brothers and sisters murdered? How do you tell?
Can you watch their face as they pass? Does the face give something away?

I listen , with loathing, to that government of Australia, mired in its own wealthy entitlement, conferring cruelty to refugees with a casual flick of the wrist- " take them away". I listen to stories of where people have come from . I wonder at the person who denies them human rights and I , down in my boots, hope that one day karma will alight on their shoulders.

I wonder how it feels to hear the plane overhead and the whistle of a bomb- these days a drone can take you out and you would never know. I wonder how it feels as your whole world turns to rubble and dust and nothingness and all you ever owned or knew is blasted away from you.

Or the woman, a mother, giving birth in the car as they escaped to Iran...... the grandfather beaten with a hose filled with rock.

This country has so many faces, some heavily veiled and some offering fleeting glimpses.

I had breakfast with my Senior class this morning , during the first lesson- gourmet doughnuts, little soft pizza things, cinammon cookies- a glucose induced coma almost followed!
I heard the stories of the Iraq invasion- you know, the one we watched on TV- the demolishing of the refineries and the setting alight of oil wells- you know the one where USA came leaping in and saved the day?
Well, this happened to real people who lost other real people and heard them die.

This is here I am
Set here amongst these stories are we extras- the helpers.

I am fascinated to be here while still being mildly bothered by some things- it has set my mind on fire !
and I sink back
thinking how lucky I am to have been offered a chance for change...

Florence farewells the sharks and greets Autumn

An honest impression of me today....
Autumn casts her cloak across Kuwait and swathes of green appear on once sandy surfaces. Trees have assumed a more assertive coat of glossiness, the leaves verdant with hope of longevity.
The sharks prey elsewhere, from Lambourghinis and Ferraris. The once fruitful Gulf is now inhabited by too few babes for too much effort.

SAturday morning was spent lying back in the sun on a peaceful beach- no jet skis anymore as autumn casts her shadow and the cold begins( 30deg).... The only pink chickie babe's years have found her more towards the old boiler state with only hints of the spring chicken! So the potential prey is no more for those sharks.... but summer will come again, and the sharks will circle again....

So what does Autumn bring? It brings a cooler world and we hasten to make the most of the time we can be outside... I believe that April, May will come all too soon.
There are birds around- pigeons are a favourite pet for some Kuwaitis and they seem to be about the only bird that can exist here.

I wandered through Marina Mall last weekend, checking out the winter clothign s I have brought almost none with me. At Xmas, I will need some serious clothing as Denmark is cold and I think Azerbeijan will whack me with some coldness. I still have people telling me how cold it will get here... it will be freezing , Miss ... tthey say, it is so so cold. Sure ! The winter clothes are serious though! It is like the clothes they sell in the tropics when Cairns thinks it is having winter!

And my beautiful prayer rug is now with me... with its wool and silken weaving.. after having visited the souk again.

 Street art Kuwaiti style

Florence Steps Down from her Joan of Arc persona.....

I sat down to write, to bemoan the fact that Kuwait has sand storms .
I had nothing really to say about it as I havent really experienced

 one yet. The other morning, the sand had created a veil across Kuwait, seeming like a fog but the particles this cloud held could be more damaging. So I Googles it!

Turns out that the fine particles do pose a real threat and it is removing exposure to these that is important. Maybe I will become a veiled woman!  The sand, the fine sand , is always around. We have asthmatics at school, just like any other place , and the sand is a huge irritant.

Today the sand is gone and is only a fine haze across the horizon...

Just a short short on today - we have just completed the first quarter of the year. The mass hysteria that eventuates when the GPA is not super high is unbelievable, and slightly demonstrative of a level of ......................................! That I could talk on at length but not in this forum. Sadly , a human who defines themselves by a number is exposed to enormous limitations when that number is not "given" to them.  My wonderful classes of girls in Hobart were  excited by taking risks and stepping outside of their experiences which opened them to a world of possibility. Education is about freedom to think and be, learning how to make this possible and allowing the subject to become(qualification,socialisation and subjectification- thank you Gert Biesta) ....... that is my focus .
I am finding that it is about the application of a number which is the denoting of success which leaves a vulnerability for those who view this as the only mark of achievement.
I will not change the world (it has taken a while to accept this)

And now to plan for Azerbeijan in three weeks......